Scuba Diving Fishing Land Rafting Xtreme Adventures Things 2DO

RODALES ARTICLES ARTICLES FROM RODALE´S SCUBA MAGAZINE Date: 2005-06-01

by dentaldiver
Date: 2005-06-01
Location: Costa Rica

THE BEACH AT CANO ISLAND

With the planned diving ending, our attentions were again focused on looking for some good real estate for a dive operation and/or retirement home along the river. At a local watering hole, I happened upon an experienced local boat Captain whose English was understandable to me. I questioned him extensively about his experiences at the river’s mouth and he assured me that the ocean was safely accessible nearly every day as long as due caution was excercised. The topic about properties came up and he was aware of a property for sale that sounded like it would fit our criteria (and yes he knew who owned it, the price, and the fact that it was truly for sale!). A short trip up the river in his boat and we arrived at the property which we decided would fit the bill and are presently in the process of
clearing for purchase through the title office in San Jose. With a few crossed fingers, we may just get to own a little piece of this paradise.

Having successfully completed our search for suitable real estate, we turned our attentions to the final task at hand, conquering the waters of the Pacuare River in a raft. On our trip in November, we negotiated the Class II and III rapids of the Sarapique river without so much as a single person going overboard but Rolando assured us that this river would be different. Located on Costa Rica’s Atlantic slope, the Pacuare River borders the Talamanca mountain range, home to native Cabecar Indians and has an incredible variety of wildlife. Proceeding 16 miles down through the heart of densely vegetated gorges, it passes gushing waterfalls, serene pools and pounding rapids, in one of Costa Rica’s most impressive primary rainforests. The challenging and numerous Class III and IV rapids are sure to provide at least the chance (or likelihood!) of getting tossed into the water. The overall operation of the river trip was impressive. Hosted by RIOS TROPICALES, every detail was attended to. We were picked up at our San Jose hotel in an air conditioned bus with bi-lingual guides who were very eager to share the history of the many sights along the two hour trip to the river. The guide on our bus was a frequent participant in the many eco-challenge races throughout Central America and was an accomplished mountain biker and kayaker. At the river, we were split into groups of six depending on our chosen language of English or Spanish. We were given a very thorough briefing about safety procedures and rafting skills that we would need to safely complete the 16 mile trip. Once in the rafts, our guide, Danny, pointed out a variety of butterflies, plants and trees, and wildlife that was found along the river bank. And, oh yes, the rapids. Fast, furious, and numerous, we negotiated most without a problem, a few with marked anxieties, and one which put three of six rafters in the water at once.

EVERYONE STILL ABOARD

The bountiful breakfast that was provided before the trip was quickly being transformed by the hours on the river to pangs of hunger that were later satisfied by the full course lunch that was also provided at the end of the rafting adventure. A slideshow of the numerous pictures taken along the way by professional photographers using high end digital cameras was shown during lunch and the CD-ROM containing the trip pictures was offered for sale. One can clearly see why the Pacuare River is rated in the top five in the world for overall beauty and the rafting experience.

Our last evening in San Jose was spent in as small outdoor Mexican cafe near our hotel sampling the cuisine and libations of the TaKila restaurant. American Airlines completed the trip and we arrived at BWI with many thoughts and memories about another wonderful trip to Costa Rica.

In summary, the Cano Island area of the Pacific coast should be on the must do list for any traveling diver. Although lacking the wondrous coral formations of places like Cozumel, Turks and Caicos, or the Bahamas, the island provides more that an even money chance of seeing big animals on any given dive. Although not as accessible as some other popular areas, the trip is fairly inexpensive with very reasonable airfares offered to San Jose. From San Jose, the trip over the central mountain region should be made as early as possible since the main road is narrow and very frequently fogged in which makes travel more difficult and dangerous. Once in the Sierpe area, prices fall dramatically compared to the other popular beach towns of Quepos, Jaco, or Domincal. An average meal consisting of fish, potato, vegetable sides, and a salad runs around $5 USD. Local beers cost under $1/bottle and are quite good (my favorites are Rock Ice and Pilsen). Unless you stay at one of the higher priced resorts in Drake Bay, finding a diving operation may be difficult. Many of the smaller hotels in the area have arrangements made with local captains to provide diving services to their customers. One could also contact Rolando Arburola at www.costaricadive.com or at his toll free number (910) 452-1452 to arrange diving with Lin and Capt. Mario. Expect warm clear water as the norm and most of all, enjoy all the sights and sounds that this beautiful country and its people have to offer. Minor travel inconveniences will most likely be rewarded with what could be the sighting of a dive lifetime. Hopefully, with any luck and a lot of hard work, “Casa Vaca Caca” will be open for operation in Sierpe (so named for the large and fresh “pasture patty” my wife stepped in while admiring the massive stand of bamboo that will someday frame the dock area of our proposed retreat!). Just ask Capt. Chino to show you where the Americans live! You can find him at the local watering hole called affectionately “Club Med”.

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