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RODALES ARTICLES
ARTICLES FROM RODALE´S SCUBA MAGAZINE
Date: 2004-12-03

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Ten Days In Costa Rica's Guanacaste Region and Arenal Volcano





The name “Costa Rica” means “rich coast”. After spending 6 days in the waters and beaches surrounding this country, it is not hard to see how this name was derived. If someone told me I would enjoy diving mainly rockpiles in limited vis, changing current and surge conditions, and water temps that varied widely from dive to dive, I would have laughed. I am convinced now that I will return to this land of plenty both above and below water.

ARENAL VOLCANO AREA

Sadly, after 6 great days of diving, complete with beautiful weather and many new friends, we had to leave the beachside resort for the mountains and inland rainforests. Our guide for the trip was none other than Rolando Arburola, the owner of Costa Rica Dive. We were picked up right on time in a new model air conditioned SUV for our 4 hr trek to the Arenal Observatory Lodge. Intially, the roads into the interior of the country were fair by American standards, but it quickly became evident why we were traveling in a four-wheel drive vehicle. Several shortcuts to the volcano area were taken which involved some fairly treacherous single lane dirt roads which Rolando skillfully navigated. We were entertained by Rolando’s insights and observations about everything from the Iraq war to the farming techniques of the rural family. Rolando is obviously well educated and well traveled, and we quickly became friends. He was insistant that if we were pulled over by the “policia” that we were NOT tourists but rather just his friends from the United States. He explained that police corruption becomes a little more evident when the occupants of a car are deemed to have any money. Regardless of our status in his country, Rolando treated us like close friends.

Rolando explained in detail the next three days he had planned for us and sensing that we were all ready, willing, and able to hang with him on a busy day, he added a few more side trips and hikes to the plans to cover as much terrain as possible in our short time in the interior. Rolando is very much committed to preserving the natural beauty of his homeland and is perhaps one of the best spokesmen for the country. He shows a real appreciation for nature and seemed to enjoy every minute of the time we spent together while he acted as our personal guide. His attention to every detail of our trip enabled us to see and do more than we could have done on our own. He has a multitude of contacts in the area which provided us with superior service while dining or enjoying the other activities the area has to offer. He is obviously well known and liked by the local business people who in turn provide an increased level of service to his “friends” and him. As an example, every morning for breakfast at the Arenal Lodge, we selected the same table, which was adjacent to a large full-length window that gave us an unobstructed view of the volcano and surrounding rainforest. After a particularly long day, which included river rafting and hiking, he made us a reservation for a special dinner, complete with a salad that the chef only makes for his “friends” to be served at our favorite table, despite the fact that the restaurant was packed. Another example of Rolando’s attention to every detail involved the hot springs tour that night after dinner. There are many hot springs in the area, which are generally packed with busloads of tourists, but Rolando had made arrangements for us at the Eco Termales springs for 8 PM. We arrived to find that we were the only ones with an appointment for a full hour to enjoy the various pools of warm water in the most private of atmospheres. Rolando was extremely careful to not invade our privacy although we enjoyed his company as much as we enjoyed each other’s. At the risk of making this report solely about Rolando, suffice it to say that I would definitely, without hesitation, book any return trips with him. His honesty, good nature, humor, and attention to detail, made this trip the best value I have had to date. I travel extensively to a multitude of locations, but I have never had such personal service for a very fair price.

Lodging for out trip to the volcano and rainforest was arranged for us at the Arenal Observatory Lodge, which sits in a very secluded area adjacent to the Arenal volcano, the most active volcano in the Americas. Lake Arenal can be seen quite clearly from the property and the location provides an unobstructed view of the volcano provided the cloud cover is not excessive. We stayed in the Smithsonian rooms, which are complete with full length, top to bottom glass windows onto the balcony. The queen- sized beds face the volcano and the entire area can be seen while in bed. The rooms were immaculate as were the surrounding grounds. There is a pool and very large hot tub for guest use as well as a multitude of gardens and hiking trails. The small but spectacular waterfall is a must see and is a short hike from the rooms. The information center at the observatory explains the use of the geophone and seismograph to monitor the geologic activity associated with the volcano.


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